Food Access and Inequity in Utica, New York: A Critique of the Food Desert Concept

Keywords: Food access, food deserts, refugee, supermarket
Abstract Type: Paper Abstract

Abstract

Food access is often studied through the lens of food deserts, which are areas where 20% or more of residents fall below the poverty line, and 33% live more than half a mile from a supermarket or large grocery store. Understanding food access goes beyond mapping poverty and supermarket location, however. Supermarkets are often vaguely defined and traditionally refer to Western-style big box stores that sell a minimal variety of ethnic foods. Conceptually, food deserts inform understanding about potential food insecurity, but they do not investigate the complexities of who struggles with food access. The limitations of food desert designations are exposed by the case of Utica, NY, which is classified as a food desert by the USDA. It is also one of the most racially and ethnically diverse cities in Central NY and has a large refugee population. GIS analysis of census track and other spatial data, archival research, and in-depth interviews with residents show that food access in Utica goes far beyond supermarkets and relies on smaller ethnic food stores. Indeed, if full-service ethnic food stores are included in the classification criteria of food deserts, then Utica no longer meets the classification. In order to have a more comprehensive understanding of the factors that contribute to food security and shape patterns of access, all forms of food supply need to be included and criteria must expand beyond simply physical access. Aid programs must take these elements into account if they are to actually support the communities they target.