Food Access in Utica, NY: A Critique of the Food Desert Concept

Keywords: Food security, GIS, Supermarket, Ethnic food stores
Session Type: Virtual Paper Abstract
Day: Friday
Session Start / End Time: 2/25/2022 03:40 PM (Eastern Time (US & Canada)) - 2/25/2022 05:00 PM (Eastern Time (US & Canada))
Room: Virtual 44

Abstract

Food access is often studied through the lens of food deserts, which are areas where 20% or more of residents fall below the poverty line, and 33% live more than half a mile from a supermarket or large grocery store. Understanding food access goes beyond mapping poverty and supermarket location, however. Supermarkets are often vaguely defined and traditionally refer to Western-style big box stores that sell a minimal variety of ethnic foods. Conceptually, food deserts inform understanding about potential food insecurity, but they do not investigate the complexities of who struggles with food access. The limitations of food desert designations are exposed by the case of Utica, NY, which is classified as a food desert by the USDA. It is also one of the most racially and ethnically diverse cities in Central NY and has a large refugee population. GIS analysis of census track and other spatial data, archival research, and in-depth interviews with residents, government officials, and community advocates show that food access goes far beyond supermarkets and relies on smaller networks of food production and distribution. Indeed, if full-service ethnic food stores are included in the classification criteria of food deserts, then Utica no longer meets the classification. Since most individuals who fall below the poverty line are racial and ethnic minorities, the definition of a food desert must include access to healthy and affordable culturally-specific foods.